State of the Art in the Meat District
You have to know about it in order to find it. When you have found it you have to look longer before you can really see it. When you have finally found it and can see it, you have direct admission to the happening art scene and Copenhagen’s most recent flow of cultural related happenings. The place mentioned here is “The White Meat District,” situated in central “Vesterbro.” Galleries, bars, film and designer companies alike are moving rapidly into this area where the closest neighbors are its original inhabitants - the butchers. It is a rough, messy and unfinished type of neighborhood and it is The place to be if you consider yourself to be a part of the happening tendencies of Copenhagen city.
The White Meat District has been untouched territory for the longest time for most Copenhageners even though it is situated in the center of Copenhagen with free access from “Halmtorvet.” Entrance to the White Meat District is from west on the S-Train towards the central train station, the area covers approximately 140,000 square meters and it rises in majestic decay towards the sky with its crisp, white fronts creating a functional state of the art atmosphere. Built in the 30s by architect Poul Holsøe, it was preserved due to its architectural qualities and cultural and historical values. The White Meat District was built in order to replace the original old meat district dating back to 1800. The enormous complex reflects elements of efficiency, hygiene and industrialization and has become a major provider of meat to various restaurants all over Copenhagen. The meat selection is extensive and covers everything from pork to beef and everything else in between. The area is extremely busy and packed with workers in white overalls. Cars and Lorries are constantly driving goods from one destination to another from early morning till mid afternoon. It really feels like the place is one huge organic machine that has maintained its own special pulse out of tune with the surrounding posh and trendy area of “Vesterbro.”
The food industry sets the standard for the everyday agenda. One has to wiggle past enormous pushcarts and parked Lorries just to get inside the area., It is the busy atmosphere coupled with amazing architecture that is drawing the creative companies towards The White Meat District. Gallery owner Bo Bjerggaard says, “The cultural society needs everyday life. I expect to run my gallery in The Meat District for many years to come - but ONLY if the butchers stay. If they move, it will all become too mundane." The international acclaimed gallery owner was one of the first to move in to the area. Bo Bjerggaard has established his gallery on a first floor, an area covering nothing less than 800 square meters. The gallery over looks train tracks and light reflecting from the white buildings outside beams in most of the day.. Close by a trendy bar has recently opened its doors. It is known as the international bar of art. One of the barmen is an international acclaimed artist, Jeppe Hein. The bar’s interior, from taps to lights are designed by Olaffur Eliasson, Michael Elmgreen and Ingvar Dragset. The bar has become a central meeting point for anyone with the slightest interest in art, culture or architecture.
Underground galleries have also established themselves as well as art and crafts designers and public relations companies. Some galleries located on the street level have opened while others reside on upper levels or in tiny alleys behind the white complex.
Companies are lining up in order to secure one of the few and relatively expensive leases despite the cost of having to renovate and comply with strict preservation laws. Currently about 100 applicants are on a waiting list to take over a lease which become available as the older companies close down or move. Approved applicants who move in contribute to the "patchwork" of creativity that has come to symbolize The White Meat District.
It is Copenhagen’s Municipal that owns the buildings and approved the new master plan four years ago in order to maximize the potential in The White Meat District. Economist Richard Florida already proved his theories on the importance of the creative class in relation to increased growth in bigger cities. Also the Municipality discovered large segments of companies able to stimulate the city’s creative potential. The White Meat District came into the spotlight and with the help of a new and young architecture firm by the name Mutopia, new lines were drawn to include the previous inaccessible meat district. Artists and butchers were invited to participate in workshops and plans were made on how to meet the functional needs of both groups. For the time being it looks like the new companies alone have enough power to attract the crowds. The original idea was to open the area by entering from several passages and to create multi-functional city room equipment (don’t know what room equipment means??).These plans are on hold for the time being. Only time will tell what the future holds for the area, but it is certain that it will continue to develop at its own speed. So far it looks like all the effort is paying off.
The neighborhood of the White Meat District has undergone enormous change over the past 10 years and has transformed from being an area for shabby working quarters. Today the main street of Istedgade is aliened with trendy cafés and designer shops. Tiny apartments have been reconstructed and expanded by tearing down walls and combining them with apartments next door. Backyards have undergone major renovation. Behind many a wall in the narrow block building complexes, park like gardens and activities have taken over the ragged yards. You can even find solar energy on several roofs and building fronts. Life is certainly happening 24 hours a day!
New restaurants and wine bars are popping up, many with an international atmosphere. A large group of young designers have spread out over time and now line the side alleys of Istedgade and Vesterbrogade.
It is still possible to find establishments that have been around for decades but as the rent increases it makes for a natural death for the old working class.
At the very end of Istedgade towards the central station you find the remains of one of the world’s first official Red Light Districts, a reminder of the days back when pornography was first released in 1969.
Even if the new tenants in The White Meat District praise the authentic mood in the area, it is not easy to predict how long before this feel could vanish. The old butchers are not as excited about the change that has contributed to rent rises and has also made trade among them more difficult. Lots of butchers repeat over and over, "Only time will tell what is going to happen." Meanwhile very different types of people pass by on their bicycles outside the butcher’s shop window. Without the butchers the area will undoubtedly radically change character.
The traffic, the smell, the noise and even the trash are after all what attract new tenants! In a few years it will be easier to ascertain how plans can be arranged to maintain both the new and the old. One thing is for sure: Copenhagen’s creative companies won’t move any time soon.
May 2008