Eco Erotica
NOIR is the eco chic brand making headlines with their sensual approach to clothing with a consciousness. We met with Creative Director Peter Ingwersen, who spoke about seduction, procreation and fashion. Why sex shouldn’t be shallow. And the double entendre behind NOIR’s new Printemps/Été “Transparency” line.
Peter Ingwersen just returned from a business trip to Dubai, seen as the hyper affluent future. Followed by a connecting flight to meetings in Africa, a continent arguably in need of a future. But Peter is used to contrasts and contradictions. An eco warrior who’s politically correct and occasionally not. As we puff on cigarettes outside his Copenhagen HQ, Peter reveals his raison d’être for pioneering the eco ethos in his sexy, sophisticated clothing brand. NOIR.
“I’m no Mother Theresa,” smiles Peter, politely opening the door for me into the chic suite offices filled with dangerously delicious after dark attire. NOIR’s mission statement is “to create meaningfulness in the luxury segment,” and Peter is credited with making CSR sexy. Did he face any major challenges in the process? “The biggest challenge was to break prejudices. Preconceived ideas of what things should look like. When you talk about eco fashion, you imagine fabrics from Goa, so thick you can smoke them. You start thinking tents.” Of course, he could have chosen to design just another sexy line. However Peter is the first to admit, “The truth is we really don’t need to buy another pair of pants. For the most part, clothing is a commodity.” Buying the next “it” bag isn’t what it’s all about. Unless a percentage of the money you spent goes towards someone who couldn’t buy it. The third world.
“The real reason people buy clothes is to have sex,” says Peter. “It’s part of our DNA. We were put on this earth to procreate. What’s the best way to have sex? To look erotic. We dress up to look attractive to others in order to have sex. That’s where fashion plays a very dominant role in procreation.” As Peter sees it, why sleep with a shallow person when you could be with someone with depth? Style alone is superficial unless it has a sustainable truth. Likewise, eco fashion is unattractive unless it has eye candy appeal.
Not surprisingly, NOIR has raised some eyebrows in response to their high hemlines and plunging necklines. Some have been extremely complimentary about the luxurious look, fit and feel, while others have been a somewhat shocked at the idea of bringing sex into the eco arena. (A view destined to be seen as close minded and antiquated.) As Peter points out, “Back in the 16th century, science challenged the Catholic church. It was the first wave of enlightenment. This is the second.” Apropos, “Illuminati II” is the name for NOIR’s soon to be launched eco-friendly fabric, “the finest sub-Saharan cotton from raw African cotton, manufactured in Europe for NOIR for onward sale around the globe to leading luxury brands.” Their vision is to create the NOIR Foundation to help local farmers in Africa improve their standards of living.
In terms of style, Peter cites Danish Modern as the design departure point in the simple lines, curves and monochromatic color schemes. “We pay tribute to the innovative shapes and forms of Danish furniture together with the classic deeds of tailoring.” But there’s a twist. NOIR’s signature style includes enticing masculine tailoring designed for women. “During the 70’s and 80’s in Denmark, women’s lib was taken to the extreme. To the point where I think Danish women have made men impotent. There’s no balance in bed and it’s something Viagra can’t help. We need the tension, the mental flirtation,” claims Peter. Once again, he succeeds with a carefully crafted contradiction. Gender blending on the one hand and suggestive, sartorial styling on the other. An un-Danish approach to fashion, which he describes as historically “hippie dippie, bohemian and poetic ‘Little House on the Prairie.’”
Danger after dark
This season’s collection from NOIR sees a sumptuous “Transparency” theme in sexy naked hues of stretch, satin and mesh, with a wink towards CSR. A double entendre which signals openness, communication and accountability in every link of the production chain. Altruism aside, let yourself luxuriate in the luscious leather separates set against soft silks and exquisite asymmetrical tailoring. And don’t miss their racy lace lingerie aptly named NOIR’s “Nu” line (as in nude.) NOIR is already taking up tons of closet space in New York, Los Angeles, Toronto, London, Vienna, Antwerp, Berlin, Hamburg, Munich, Zürich, Oslo, Istanbul, Moscow, Osaka and Hong Kong, among others. In Copenhagen, you can find them at Holly Go Lightly, Trois Pommes, Milk, Normann Copenhagen Retail and for online shopping at www.readytowear.dk
What’s NOIR’s next provocative move? As expected, Peter is elusive. “Fashion is fickle. Just when you think you know what NOIR is all about, it might surprise you. NOIR is planning to introduce colors and some softer lines.” He won’t elaborate, except to say that his aim is to be part of the next zeitgeist in a more versatile universe, “bridging ethics and coolness, ethics and sexiness, ethics to status. Whether in fashion or literature or art.”
As we conclude, once again Peter politely holds the door open for me. He is the quintessential gentleman. And NOIR remains as enigmatic as its name suggests. “There needs to be a bit of mystery in any relationship,” adds Peter. “Whether between lovers or between brands and consumers.” So stay tuned for NOIR’s future illuminations and you’ll soon get the other double meaning. The one in NOIR’s clever slogan, “In darkness all colours agree.”
May 2008