Don’t say you’ve got nothing to wear
Until recently, Danish jewelry reflected a cultural attitude which applauded modesty and shunned anything akin to extravagance. All that has changed. Just as Danish fashion is hitting the high-profile catwalks and Copenhagen is being seen as the fifth fashion metropolis, Danish jewelry is becoming the hottest must-have around. Here are some of the names worth knowing, shops worth shopping and pieces worth buying. Once you see them, you won’t want to leave home without them.
In ancient cultures, jewelry signified your social standing in society, a link to your ancestors and your appeal to potential suitors. As a gift, it usually reflects “how deep is your love” (or your pocket.) In Denmark, jewelry has its heritage in craftsmanship, where less has always meant more and simple reigns supreme. Here the social democracy mentality means “we’re all the same.” In other words, don’t stand out. (Shocking for some who come from cultures which encourage individuality.) Anything ornate used to be seen as over the top and opulence was viewed as ostentatious. Many of these attitudes still run deep in the Danes. But with the luxury market on the upswing and Denmark’s new-found affluence, Danes have moved away from modesty to a different kind of honesty. A bit closer to “If you’ve got it, flaunt it.”
On the fashion front, jewelry has risen up the ranks in the eyes of the upper echelon. From an accessory after-thought to a fashion imperative. Just look behind the scenes of any fashion photo shoot and you’ll find a stylist stressing over which jewelry will make each outfit a pièce de résistance complete. While fashionistas will feel the pressure to buy a new “it” bag each season at an incrementally impossible price, jewelry aficionados can indulge in an array of affordable Danish designs - from trendy to timeless. Meet the power players in Danish jewelry. Designing pieces to punctuate any fashion statement, with a fab factor you won’t find anywhere else.
Irresistible
Dyrberg/Kern have a finger on the fashion pulse. Their exquisite designs remain at the forefront of trend forecasters. Each season, they introduce several looks to appeal to opposite ends of the style spectrum. From classic to cutting edge or cyber to natural, their approach is much more decorative than other Danish brands. For Creative Directors and designers Henning Kern and Gitte Dyrberg, adornment is inextricably linked with allure. Elegance and extravagance are apparent in each impeccably crafted piece designed with a not-so-secret agenda in mind. To make you look like a million. Voted Entrepreneurs of the Year by Ernst and Young, Dyrberg/Kern launched a menswear line before others followed suit. They were also the first Danish jewelry brand to have their own fashion show, where all the proceeds were donated to the “Children in Need” charity. A recent collection featured a chain “plaisir brassier”, a fabulous fashion item in its own right. Their unique connection with Swarovski led to a specially-designed piece to benefit the Danish Red Cross, and a promotional piece using Crystallized – Swarovski Elements which D/K designed exclusively for Nokia. Hand-cut natural stones like malachite, black onyx and tiger eye couple with sterling silver and other metals and finishes for a look that’s chic and complete. Don’t miss their luxurious line of time pieces for men and women or their exclusive eyewear. If you’re looking for something to add power and panache to your persona, you’ve just found it. www.dyrbergkern.com
Sculptural
Nature is the co-designer in the stunning, sculptural pieces created by Gerda and Nicolai Monies. Their creative point of departure is the choice of natural materials which have their own intrinsic beauty and appeal, namely jade, bone, wood, amber, coral, shell, mother of pearl and other exotic semi-precious stones found in their world travels. Whether curved or faceted, polished or raw, the result is a truly unique, one-of-a-kind conversation piece. Composition, color, size and shape are carefully considered as key factors in creating a silhouette which accentuates the female form. Most of the pieces tend to be large, so the overall effect is bold and inarguably beautiful. From ravishing rings, earrings and brash bracelets to strands of striking stones in necklaces, chokers, pendants, belts and the like. Each one is a piece of art. And so are you. Because the innate aura of the material radiates even more the minute you put it on. Asia, Africa, Australia and South America are where they find many of the stones and gems in a variety of vibrant colors, with Denmark as the birthplace of the sea amber they use. All the materials are certified in compliance with the International Wildlife Laws of the Washington Convention. Gerda and Nicalai put a priority on their seafront surroundings in Copenhagen which is key for their creativity. Monies has an ethnic-inspired sense of aesthetics which is never out of fashion. If you want to make a dramatic entrance, you’ve come to the right place. www.monies.dk
Inventive
Enter Galleri Hoff in the heart of Copenhagen and you’ll find a collective of designers who blur the boundaries between art and design. They differ in their unique angle on aesthetics and choice of materials. But what they all share is an inventive eye when it comes to engineering intriguing shapes in space. Some bracelets are made out of copper nets while others unfold to open. You’ll find a refresher’s course in geometry in Mikala Djørup’s off-kilter cluster of diamonds in squares in 18 karat gold. A whimsical mix of diamonds in mini discs from Tina Kronhorst. Other pieces reflect curious formations and material combinations. The designers who exhibit at Galleri Hoff alternate often, so it’s worth a frequent visit. One designer who ventured out on her own is Bodil Binner, who designs with diamonds. In fact her new boutique was created by the architects who designed the “Black Diamond” Danish Royal Library, Schmidt Hammer Lassen. Bodil’s impressive craftsmanship is apparent in each perfectly constructed piece. Her style is ”simple, solid and symmetrical.” A Scandinavian sensibility where minimalism is taken to the max, and where Bodil brings innovative ways of connecting her choice of Tahiti and South Sea pearls. She is an I.G.I. certified diamond and pearl grader and makes each piece by hand. Even if you’re not ready to say “I do” to a diamond ring with marital meaning, you’ll find exclusive items for men as well as women. Ideal as gifts (for yourself.) Check out www.gallerihoff.dk and www.bodilbinner.dk
Iconic
Georg Jensen is one of Denmark’s icons of elegance recognized the world over. While they continue to expand upon their heritage as silversmiths in their extensive living line and accessories for the home and office, they are increasing their profile as a global fashion brand in the luxury segment. Last year saw the launch of their “Cave” collection at a trendy loft space at 7 World Trade Center, where they wooed fashion influentials during New York Fashion Week with amazing images of their diamond-studded collection almost floating in space, a special effect achieved with the help of a fog machine specially flown in from Finland. They also held a party during Oscar week to appeal to Hollywood celebs and other such VIPs. But the real talk of the town was the opening of their boutique in Beverly Hills – the first Georg Jensen shop in the US. Perfectly positioned on posh Rodeo Drive, they enlisted the talents of Japanese architect Tadao Ando to design the Zen-like interior, where 117,000 LED lights contribute to a mesmerizing display of striking styles. Yann Siliec is the Creative & Artistic Director overseeing Georg Jensen designs, with a background in fashion, visual merchandising and journalism. He ensures a design lingo which remains pure and poetic. The next time you visit their boutique, make sure you see their “Möbius” and “Cascade” lines, as well as their watches and men’s line. Modern interpretations of a legacy that lives on, where simplicity is sublime. www.georgjensen.com
Popular
There are several other Danish jewelry names worth noting. One in particular is Julie Sandlau. A pair of her earrings was spotted by the stylist for Destiny’s Child and have since appeared on Reese Witherspoon in the Academy Award winning film “Dreamgirls”. Other celebs listed include Gwyneth Paltrow, Keira Knightly and Jessica Simpson as well as Beyoncé. ARENA JEWELLERY is a forum for creative collaboration with some of the most talented designers around. The result is a range of styles rooted in Danish minimalism, from delicate and romantic to kitschy and symbolic. ARENA 10 Copenhagen is their new, more exclusive line in gold and semi-precious stones. Pilgrim is another Danish favorite, with bohemian beginnings now popular for its 3D floral enamels, vivid colors and matching rings, earrings and pendants. Each season has about 11 different lines, including one where the proceeds go to Médecins Sans Frontières. Line & Jo are two designers whose styles swing from intricate and ornamental to bold and graphic, offering a casual, contemporary take on pieces you’d find in a treasured box of jewels. Don’t miss a visit to Green Door, a sweet boutique filled with a beautiful array of understated elegance. Loads of luminescent gems artistically arranged in appealing designs you can’t help but love. Whether you want something simple and streamlined or decorative and delicious, you can count on finding it. And feeling fabulous. See www.juliesandlau.com, www.arena-jewellery.com, www.pilgrim.com, www.lineandjo.com and www.greendoor.dk
February 2008