Jens Laugesen
Jens Laugesen was originally going to study microbiology. Good thing he didn’t, because he recently became the first Dane to receive the coveted French ANDAM design award, sponsored by LVMH (Louis Vuitton / Möet Hennesy) and L’Oreal. Still, his fascination with genetic manipulation has found its way into what he terms “a new species of clothes.” A graduate of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, Jens received a Master’s degree in Fashion Management at L'Institut Français de la Mode, and moved to London to begin his exploration of “hybrid reconstruction”, morphing a mixture of generic genres to create new ones. His clothes have appeared in the Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and to rave reviews during London Fashion Week. Jens is one of a select few chosen by Alexander McQueen to be featured is his new book, Sample: 100 Fashion Designers.
“I didn’t go outside Denmark to do fashion, just to find myself.”
Right after receiving his high school degree in science, Jens made a move that would change his life forever. He took a sabbatical in the south of France, where he realized that the thinking process involved in genetics could be applied to fashion. It is this scientific approach to re-engineering that is the springboard for Jens’ creations. Going abroad was key for him to come to that conclusion. A challenge that involved “transforming yourself to become another person than if you had stayed in your native country all your life. And maybe in the end, finding your roots,” says Jens. Like Camilla, it wasn’t a deliberate move to divorce himself from all things Danish. But rather a move that led to the freedom to re-define himself.
“In Denmark, there was never a fashion tradition to begin with – in order to rebel against.”
So how does Jens define Danish fashion? “Danish culture is rooted in tradition and conformity.” Where architects and furniture designers, like Verner Panton and Arne Jacobsen symbolized the modernistic mentality of the time, “Danish fashion has never had the same strong artistic identity. It comes from either the textile industry, focusing more on the tradition of craftsmanship, or folk art, notes Jens.” In the UK, fashion and design have historically evolved from art schools, hence their more avant garde approach. While French fashion emerged from decorative arts, and has its roots in designing for nobility. As Jens points out, “In Denmark, here was never a fashion tradition to begin with – in order to rebel against.”
Re-defining design
Jens’ own design DNA stems from an approach that’s more conceptual, intellectual and most of all – scientific. In fact, DNA is very much the name of his game. His process involves “The willingness to destroy and deconstruct. To look for the beauty in the chaos. I like to analyze, contextualize and materialize my thought process into objects that are, by accident, clothes.” Without getting too cerebral, Jens confesses “At the end of the day, I do design clothes for other people to wear.”
For those of you who ever thought that fashion was mindless or frivolous, you couldn’t be further from the truth. After seeing the fall of the Twin Towers in New York, Jens responded with a series of collections called “The Ground Zero Trilogy”. Admittedly, the first collection appeared too soon after the event, before there was any emotional recovery. Still a subject of controversy, he wanted ”to build from the ashes, to see what could emerge from the havoc.” Not unlike other artists who experience a certain angst, Jens claims “I’ve been in chaos all my life. You just have to have faith that you will get through it.”
A genetic approach to the generic
Jens formulated his philosophy into a dogma he calls “Hybrid Reconstruction” during his MA studies at St. Martins in London. It’s a process where he morphs together fragments of garments to create a new genre. Basic generic garments, like the white shirt, the tank top and tuxedo jacket are his design chromosomes from which he creates a new species of clothing. “Once I have these fragments, I re-assemble them into hybrids that fall in between typical types of clothing. It’s a little like playing with Lego bricks.” Included in the creative outcome has been gender bender clothing. Unisex garments that start with a utilitarian look, and then evolve into a cross-dressing of both. The result is neither masculine nor feminine, but something else. Jens is very open to the mistakes that appear all along the way. “Small, beautiful unpredictable accidents that become the new norm of design.”
What’s next - The future now
I found myself completely enthralled by Jens’ approach to defying definition. Not surprisingly, others are equally as intrigued. He has received several awards and sponsorships, such as the Fashion East Award and The New Generation/Topshop award from the British Fashion Council, which he won three consecutive times. He is completing his trilogy which started with “Ground Zero”, followed by “Inside Out” and ending with “The Future Now”. Given the funding from his ANDAM Award, Jens is getting in gear for his SS07 collection to be presented during Paris Fashion Week. Without a doubt, it will be a de and re-construction of his design DNA transformed into a new concept of cool.
February 2007