Camilla Stærk
If Camilla Stærk’s last name, which means “strong”, isn’t enough of an indication, then the fact that she left her own company to start again should tell you something. One of the first Danish designers in recent years daring to go it alone outside the comfort of her home country, Camilla made a name for herself with what’s been termed “gothic poetry”, from her sensual mixing of leather with lace. Working from her London studio didn’t stop celebrities in Hollywood, like Madonna, Sarah Jessica Parker, Julianne Moore, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Kelly Klein and PJ Harvey from finding her. Now re-rooted in New York, where her clothes are featured in Helena Christensen’s shop, Butik, Camilla is ready to re-invent herself. And is someone to be applauded for being one of the first Danish fashion figures to design a different future - elsewhere.
Leaving Denmark was a decision based on indecision
I’m fascinated by the concept of coincidence – and choices based on chance. So I wasn’t surprised to find that Camilla’s decision to leave Denmark was based on indecision. She applied to the Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication in London, very popular for fashion designers in the making, to study either art history or fashion design and was accepted into both programs. “I knew I wanted to study abroad, but didn’t expect to stay there for 10 years,” says Camilla. “London gave me this anonymous face where I could be free to find myself. I was suddenly in a place where everyone was different. Individuality was everything.” Culturally, Danes put an enormous emphasis on being the same. However artists need to express the soul they have yet to discover, unravel and reveal, so it’s an attitude that doesn’t lend itself to thinking along different lines.
Dark, romantic and melancholic designs
The result of her studies and stay in the UK is a signature style that’s seen as poetic and melancholic. It involves the interplay between mannish tailoring mixed with feminine fabrics and textures. And the contrast between structured and restrictive styles versus curvy, womanly shapes. The co-existence of these differences is the common denominator for what has become a consistent, recognizable red thread throughout her work. The overall impression is delicate and mysterious. Adds Camilla, “And there’s always a knotted, twisted detailed on the hip or the shoes – somewhere for you to discover for yourself.”
Camilla’s dark, enigmatic approach to design didn’t stop her from being featured as the main star of the Danish Fashion UNIK exhibition that launched in Denmark in 2004. In London, her talent was spotted early on by the powers that be behind Fashion East. She was awarded the New Generation/Topshop sponsorship, after which her sales and stocklists tripled. And she’s been a regular on the catwalks during London Fashion Week. Camilla has also worked as a creative consultant for Liberty of London, in conjunction with their in-house accessories design team and Liberty’s Brand Director.
The interplay between two opposing characters
True to her combination of contrast and contradiction, the departure point for Camilla’s most recent collection was inspired by David Lynch’s two characters from Twin Peaks, Laura Palmer and her confidant, Donna Hayward. “I love to play with two opposing characters.” Entitled “Walk With Me”, it was shown during New York Fashion Week and at the Paris Fashion Week last October. Other inspiration comes from the atmosphere created in films, music and stories from writers like Milan Kundera. “I continuously collect and store information in my head. Then it’s all about channeling these visual images into a collection,” says Camilla.”
Leaving her brand to start her brand
Camilla herself is a walking, talking example of beauty and poetry. Soft-spoken and sweet, her delicate, fine-lined features and appearance belie the strength inside. She recently decided to leave not just her shop on Notting Hill, but also the brand carrying her name. A decision driven by her passion to keep the purity of her unique niche designs and to evolve her poetic universe. “It would be easy to become mainstream, but that’s not what I’m about.” Manhattan is the place she now calls home, and it’s headquarters for her new company, Stærk. For Camilla, New York gives her energy, freedom and the chance to explore her creativity. “New York is full of characters and spontaneity. I thrive on that.”
Next stop? It’s a secret
Understandably, what seems to drive Camilla is the need to be herself, made possible by making her home far away from home. In her search for moody beauty, Camilla’s decision to be true to her dark spirit will most definitely pay off. The move to New York will give her the freedom to take things in a new direction, building on what she has created so far. What can we look forward to seeing from Camilla in her new future? True to form, her answer is elusive. “I would like to keep that a secret.”
February 2007