Fashion forecast
Twice a year, Copenhagen is host to what has become Northern Europe’s most popular fashion week. In case you can’t make to the catwalks, here’s a sneak peak at the Spring/Summer 07 collections from several of the growing number of successful Danish designers making a name for themselves. So get out your credit cards, and leave plenty of room in your suitcase for some funky, fabulous, simple, sexy and highly-stylized souvenirs from your trip to Copenhagen.
By Malene Birger – Design Diva Deluxe
Malene Birger brings a sassy, sexy sense of class to every collection she creates. Inspired by film and style icons, this season takes its point of departure from the infamous French singer and seductress, Jane Birken. Featuring luxurious, dresses, slacks and suits, summery lacey, racy and risqué dresses and tantalizing tunics, the look is so St. Tropez. Ms Birger just launched her mini shoe collection and her designer line of luggage, adding to her popular accessory line and brand new limited edition of her personal “Darlings.” The first Danish designer to introduce a haute couture line, the SALON, check out her beautiful boutique in Copenhagen central, and keep your eyes open for three more shops coming soon to a European city near you.
NOIR – Erotic and Eco Chic
Mixing masculinity and femininity, seduction and provocation, NOIR is a luxury line making headlines for more than its liquid leather jackets and slacks, slinky fit and sleek suits. It’s a brand that brings sex appeal to social responsibility. Former Brand Director for Levi, Peter Ingwersen, is the brains behind the concept, creating Illuminati II as the fair trade fabric where proceeds go back to the people in Uganda who produce it. NOIR was invited to open London Fashion Week SS07, and is the name on everyone’s list for more recognition to come. Just one year old, NOIR is already taking up tons of closet space in Tokyo, New York, Miami, London, Moscow and Hong Kong. Adding edginess to their alluring image is NOIR’s clever slogan, “In darkness all colours agree.”
Ivan Grundahl – Long, Layered, Angular and Asymmetrical
Ivan Grundahl continues to dress and impress his fashion followers with the same approach – only different. Long lines, an abundance of raw fabric and handkerchief hems are his signature style, and this season he brings a bright white to his favorite hues of black and brown. With a salute to the military, Mr Grundahl recreates camouflage, with accents such as textured ruffles in olive green. He re-constructs jackets to be angular and asymmetrical, adding to his linear look with long zips. Simple yet striking, his silhouettes are strong and impactful, appealing to tall women, and to those who wish they were.
Mads Nørgaard – Celebrating a sexy simplicity and celebrity itself
A popular player on the Danish front, Mads Nørgaard sends a message with this season’s collection. “Fashion is meant to support and free you, not overrule or control you.” Looking at his back to basics approach, it’s hard to disagree. Simple is super sexy, as seen in his sharp lines and crisp color combinations which mix and always match. But it’s his menswear line that Mr. Nørgaard is most famous for. The look is masculine and mean, yet squeaky clean, with white on white and tight jeans. Catwalks include appearances by the leader of Denmark’s renown rock group, Sort Sol, and the infamous and never not gorgeous, Helena Christiansen.
Baum und Pherdgarten – Eclectic and Ironic
This is a name worth noting, even if you can’t pronounce it. Rikke Baumgarten & Helle Hestehave are the founders who bring a mix of humor and irony to their coquettish designs. This season, their girlish approach to bell-shaped dresses with bows shows a lot of leg room, adding a touch of naughty to something that could seem too nice. Denim dresses are dressed up with wide black, patent leather belts and perfect pumps to match. Painted underneath is yellow, a striking contrast to the black. Just when you think their look is refined, they add something to rough it up. And vice versa. These queens of contrast will continue to create curiosity and controversy on their road to success.
February 2007