Mapping Copenhagen History
The history of Copenhagen is a fascinating tale that stretches back over 800 years. Denmark’s capitol is covered in the footprints of kings and queens and bloody battles were fought within the city’s limits. Many of the districts have burned to the ground, only to be rebuilt over and over again. Copenhagen’s long history has shaped the metropolis and made it what it is today. Copenhagen Exclusive asked three Copenhageners with insight into the city's history to tell us about their favorite historical sites in the Danish capital.
Carsten U. Larsen
Director at The National Museum
Carsten U. Larsen is director of Denmark's largest museum of cultural history. He has an M.A. in Archaeology and Computer Science. The National Museum, situated in the center of Copenhagen, covers the history of Denmark, allowing you to follow the comprehensive story of the Danes all the way up to modern times.
Assistens Kirkegård
To foreigners it might seem a bit strange and morbid to name a cemetery a historical attraction, but Assistens Kirkegård is not only a place for the locals to breath, it’s also a culturally and historically important landmark for all of Denmark. World-famous nobilities such as philosopher Søren Kierkeggard, author Hans Christian Andersen and physicist Niels Bohr are buried here.
"It started out as a place where poor people living outside the city limits were buried, but it has become a very prestigious cemetery. Today, many locals use the cemetery as a park. Many of the headstones were made by some of the best Danish sculptors, so visitors are also treated to some amazing art and get an impression of a piece of Denmark's cultural legacy."
Frederiksholm Kvarter
This is one of the oldest and most picturesque districts of Copenhagen. Frederiksholm is surrounded by a canal, the Parliament and the harbor. Built in the 1740's by Nicolai Eigtved, who was architect to the Danish Royal Family, Frederiksholm was originally designed as a residence for Crown Prince Frederik V. Today, Frederiksholm houses the National Museum.
"I admit I'm a bit biased when choosing Frederiksholm. I live there myself, and it's also home to the National Museum. But it is a fantastic place. It pulls you back in time. When you walk along the long, beautiful cloister and reach the end of the street, you can see the canal filled with small boats and the Parliament pointing dominantly towards the sky. This is a place that everybody in Copenhagen knows and has passed hundreds of times."
Borgmestervangen
You will not find these warehouses in any of the traditional tourist guides. They were built in the beginning of the 20th century because the city needed to divert some of the heavy freight out of its center. It became a new junction in Copenhagen and, as Carsten Larsen puts it, "Borgmestervangen might be an unconventional choice, but these warehouses tell the story of why Nørrebro has developed the way it has over the last century. The area around Nørrebro Station became packed with small businesses and working class apartments. The warehouses are beautiful, but in terrible condition, and unfortunately they might be demolished in the near future and be replaced by apartment buildings. That would be a shame, but it is nevertheless a very good reason to visit them before it's too late."
Jon Pape
Head of Public Spaces, The City of Copenhagen
As landscape architect and head of Public Spaces for the City of Copenhagen, it is Jon Pape's job to connect the city's history with the present while accommodating the needs of the current inhabitants.
Sankt Hans Torv
Nørrebro's renaissance began in the area around Sankt Hans Torv. The star players of the square are two cafés: Pussy Galore's Flying Circus and Sebastopol, spots that are usually packed to the ceiling during weekends. Each spring these two popular Copenhagen cafés move their tables and chairs out into the square to create a lively atmosphere.
"It is a square that simply glows. The atmosphere of Sankt Hans Torv is something that people from far away come to experience. The history of Sankt Hans Torv is fascinating because it is a place that has really changed a lot over the decades. Today you can spend many hours at the cafés and look at very different people in one of the classic squares in the city. In recent years, the dynamics of Sankt Hans Torv has spread to the neighboring streets towards the lake."
Nyboder
A housing development from the 17th century consisting of small, yellow terraced houses, Nyboder was built during the reign of Christian IV (1588-1648) as dwellings for the sailors in his marine.
It is still used for residential purposes by the Danish Navy. One of the buildings in the original development, Sct. Paulsgade, houses the Nyboder Museum.
"To me, Nyboder symbolizes something uniquely Copenhagen-ish. There is something cunning and human about this district that is hard to describe in words. I like the way they managed to build a big district all at once while also making it feel like a place you would like to live in. It’s almost like a village within the city. Nyboder contributes to the identity of Copenhagen because it has such a clear reference to the history of the city."
Islands Brygge
Only a few years ago Islands Brygge was a district you would not like to visit. It was a mixture of old industrial buildings and shady neighborhoods. Today it has blossomed into a vibrant district where many of the old historic industrial structures have been transformed into huge apartment buildings by leading architects.
"To me, Islands Brygge tells a lot about the development of Copenhagen. From the days where the inner city was dominated by factories and anonymous, somewhat dull districts, to a metropolis that has used its history as a catalyst to become a new, dynamic area where people enjoy spending time. Today, the old harbor front is a popular promenade, and the city has built a basin where hundreds of people swim each summer – just like they did in the old days."
Pernille Steensgaard
Pernille Steensgaard is a journalist at the weekly newspaper Weekendavisen. She has written the book Copenhagen – People and Places, which guides readers through Copenhagen's fascinating history. The book became a bestseller in 2002. She also lectures about causes behind the diversity among the city’s many districts and how Copenhagen is currently undergoing transformation.
Kastellet
Many describe this place as the lungs of Copenhagen. Kastellet (also known as Cittadellet) is an old naval fortress from 1664, built to protect the city from foreign invaders. Today it is a big park where locals walk around the ramparts that form a perfect pentagon. In the middle of Kastellet is a cluster of buildings that once housed up to 1,800 soldiers. Today, the buildings are used by the Military Intelligence Agency – the Danish equivalent to the CIA.
"Kastellet is one of Europe's finest fortresses. It is a pearl in the middle of the city where you really get a sense of history. On the one side, you have some of Copenhagen's oldest districts, and on the other you have the sea, which has always been extremely important to the city. The buildings in Kastellet are very beautiful and give a good impression of what typical Danish architecture was all about years ago. The old mill tells you that hundreds of people actually lived here many years ago. Because of the shape of the fortress and the military use, I like to call Kastellet the Baroque Pentagon."
Frederiksberg Allé
Champ-Elysées in Copenhagen? Not quite, but Frederiksberg Allé comes close. It’s probably the most impressive avenue in Copenhagen and is clearly inspired by its Parisian counterpart.
It was built in 1700 for the royal family, so that they could travel easily to their summer residence Frederiksberg Castle. At first, only the royal family was allowed to use the avenue, but it was later opened to the public. Today it’s an upper-class district packed with theatres and cafés.
"Fredriksberg Allé is totally different than other parts of the city. It is Copenhagen’s only big axis, and it's an imitation of a French street. Some of the apartment buildings even have Louvre-look-alike features. The avenue is in the district of Frederiksberg, which in many ways is totally different from other districts in the city. If you walk from Vesterbro to Frederiksberg you will notice a remarkable change happen within maybe 50 meters. Fredriksberg is a conservative pocket in Copenhagen and has been for ages. When I walk along Frederiksberg Allé on a Sunday morning, the avenue makes me feel important and sophisticated."
Vor Frue Kirke Plads
This square between the University and the cathedral exudes wisdom and religion. To the untrained eye it might look older than it actually is. It was bombed in 1807 by the English army, who used the church tower as target and almost totally destroyed the area.
"This is a very dark place to be in the evening. I think it puzzles many foreigners why we don't light up the square and the church at night, as they do in many other cities. But we don't do that here, and I love to visit this place in darkness. It is a very peaceful and romantic place to walk around in. When it drizzles a bit – which it often does here - it doesn’t get much better. The paving stones gleam from the distant light coming out of the windows. For some reason, I find that very typical of Copenhagen."
February 2007