Vesterbro
When you stand on Rådhuspladsen (the City Hall Square) with the wind in your hair and look towards Tivoli on Vesterbrogade, you also get a glimpse of Vesterbro (West Bridge), one of the most vibrant parts of the city. Vesterbro has grown from idyllic countryside to a densely populated urban district in the space of 150 years. Today, Vesterbro has everything that the modern city tourist desires.
In the past, peasants traveled along Vesterbrogade when they came into town to sell their goods. On their way to the various town squares where trading took place, they would spend the night in one of the inns along Vesterbrogade, enjoying the opportunity to take part in whatever entertainment the area had to offer. The district has retained an atmosphere of festivity, thanks in large part to the Tivoli Gardens, which was established in 1843 outside the ramparts of the Old City for the recreation and amusement of Copenhageners and visitors.
But Vesterbrogade has another landmark: the slender Radisson SAS Royal Hotel whose twenty floors rise high above the rest of the city. The hotel was built in 1960 by the famous Danish architect Arne Jacobsen. He designed not only the building, but the entire interior as well: chairs, lamps, door handles, baseboards etc. Two of his now world famous chairs, “The Swann” and “The Egg,” were made especially for the Royal Hotel. Nowadays, they are sought after by collectors from all over the world.
On the top floor, the restaurant Alberto K offers Danish and Italian cuisine and one of the best views of the city.
Diagonally opposite the hotel is Central Station- this is where the real Vesterbro begins. If you exit the station at the west end, you will be facing the first part of Istedgade, the most hectic route in town. This street has led a colorful and motley life and plays a part in many songs and poems about the human tide of the town. The area was previously a distinctly working-class neighborhood, and Istedgade was once a hardcore red light district. Danish literature abounds with stories with the following common theme: hopeful youth leaves the provinces, is dazzled by the bright lights of the big city and eventually perishes in the vortex of Vesterbro. Though red lights and porn shops still dot the first length of Istedgade, the whole of Vesterbro, Istedgade included, is undergoing a huge transformation. Cramped, worn-down apartment houses are being renovated and dark backyards are being cleared in order to make way for green patios. Today in Vesterbro, instead of the junky backyards of yesterday, you’ll find residents basking in the sun and barbecuing with friends. Despite this congenial atmosphere, most locals move out when they have children, opting for more peaceful parts of town.
Halmtorvet (Straw Square), next to Istedgade, has recently undergone a remarkable transformation. Previously a sad area in every sense of the word, Halmtorvet now flaunts fine cafés and fancy restaurants, giving the area an almost Parisian atmosphere. Directly opposite Halmtorvet, you have Øksnehallen, formerly the old cattle market. This area has also been dramatically transformed: today it is Vesterbro’s main cultural center, with art and modern photography exhibitions throughout the year.
Øksnehallen also houses various trade fairs, among them the very popular “Flea Market de Luxe,” which takes place every November and lasts for a weekend. In the last few years, young Danish clothes designers have had unprecedented success, both in Denmark and abroad, and this is your chance to meet them face to face (and get your hands on some of their designs at a fraction of the retail price). For the designers, the fair is also a chance to clean out their storerooms and hang out with colleagues.
Go look for the underground art scene on the side streets of Vesterbro, where new, progressive galleries are established in basement rooms with neon lighting and cobwebs on the ceiling. This is where collectors go searching for the artists of tomorrow.
You can still find places to take in the atmosphere of old Vesterbro, but the original pubs with red and white checked tablecloths and cigar-colored wallpaper are quickly thinning out. Vesterbro has become fashionable. The apartments are extremely sought after by students, bohemians and creatives. Fashion boutiques, restaurants and cafés like Bang & Jensen, Ricco’s Coffee Shop and Ideal Bar lie side by side and bear witness to the fact that the Vesterbro clientele has changed. Ideal Bar is not only a bar but also a mini nightclub with different themes for different weeknights: funk, poetry slam, hip-hop etc. Its next-door neighbor is the popular concert hall Store Vega, where artists such as Beth Hart, Rufus Wainwright and Belle & Sebastian perform when they are in Copenhagen.
The area has become a favorite haunt of young, hip Copenhageners, who fill up the bars every Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The atmosphere is relaxed, and people dress accordingly. If you ask the native Copenhageners, Vesterbro is the place to be at night.
May 2006