Danish Fashion Aims for the Stars
Let’s be honest. Copenhagen is not Paris, nor is it Milan, London or New York when it comes to ultra luxurious fashion shows with the most expensive top models and international fashion journalists pushing and shoving to get past the doormen. And thank God for that, says three Danish fashion editors, here offering their thoughts on what is going on with Danish fashion at the moment. They all think that Copenhagen has lots to offer fashion-wise. Several upcoming Danish designers have become permanently employed by international fashion houses. And international heavyweights like Prada, Max Mara, Chanel, Hermés and Louis Vuitton have discovered Copenhagen and opened up stores in the city, more precisely in the posh end of Strøget, adjacent to Kongens Nytorv. In the area around Kronprinsensgade, also in the Old City, you will find designer stores lying side by side, and the most cutting-edge Danish as well as international fashion at Bruuns Bazaar, Flying A and Paristexas. Copenhagen has established itself as the fashion metropolis of the North with a multitude of fashion shows, among them Copenhagen International Fashion Fair and CPH Vision, both well worth a visit.
"Copenhagen has gained self-confidence"
Chris Pedersen, Euroman: "In the last decade, Denmark has been riding a fantastic wave of success in movies, starting with Lars von Trier’s Dogma films, and when something like that happens, it rubs off on the entire cultural environment. Self-confidence grows and ambitions get bigger. Danish actors appear in international films, and Danish supermodels win big contracts abroad, which is impressive when you consider that Denmark is a really tiny country. The funny thing is that while other models move to Paris and New York to make a name for themselves, Danish models like Freja Beha, Eddie Klint and Mathias Lauridsen have plenty of assignments abroad, but prefer to live in Copenhagen. They fly out to work, then fly home to Copenhagen. The phenomenon is well-known in the fashion business and considered a curious Danish specialty. And the same is true for designers: they used to move to foreign metropolises like London, New York or Paris in order to find a fulfilling creative environment, but there is so much going on in Copenhagen now that many creative people choose to stay here. Copenhagen Fashion Week has become a huge event in only a few years, attracting more and more international fashion journalists each year. If I should mention one particularly interesting Danish brand of the moment, it would be Day Birger et Mikkelsen. The London fashion empire Harvey Nichols, who deal in brands like Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, have included some of Day’s designs in an exclusive collection for men and women, and this is quite extraordinary for a Danish brand.
"The intimate fashion week"
Rachael Morgan, DANSK Magazine: "In Copenhagen, the fashion shows are a far cry from the hectic, extravagant Paris shows. Here, the atmosphere is more cozy and relaxed. This is one of the things that makes you love Copenhagen, when you are used to a business that is high and mighty, opulent and in your face. Here, we don’t have the likes of Karl Lagerfeld or the most expensive top models, and there are no long lines with people yelling because they can’t get a seat in the front row. But Copenhagen has so much else to offer. Without the hysteria, it is much easier to actually digest what you see and mingle informally. An increasing number of international fashion journalists have become aware of the Copenhagen fashion scene. There is a great Danish tradition for good design by people like Arne Jacobsen and Verner Panton, and now people are beginning to turn their attention to more than interior design. Baum und Pferdgarten and NOIR are two of the hottest Danish brands of the moment. That is really positive because until now, Danish designers have had to move to London to get a shot at international recognition. Both Camilla Stærk and Jens Laugesen are really good ambassadors for Danish fashion, but, unfortunately, they live in London. As an industry, Danish fashion still has a lot to learn. We have to get better at marketing ourselves abroad and get even more international fashion writers to come to Copenhagen and see how the city flourishes.
"The fashion center of Scandinavia"
Stine Goya, Cover: "Danish fashion really took off in the 1990’s. Before that, Margit Brandt and Erik Mortensen were the only Danish designers with an international reputation. But today, fashion houses like Munthe plus Simonsen, Bruuns Bazaar and Day Birger et Mikkelsen have gained worldwide recognition. That has given the industry self-confidence, just like Danish architecture did in the 1960’s. Young designers like Henrik Vibskov get international publicity and graduate from reputable design academies, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London being one of the most well-known. Other designers have established themselves outside Denmark, for instance Camilla Stærk.
Danish fashion is in keen competition with Swedish fashion, but the two also inspire each other. Swedish brands do well in Denmark and vice versa. If I have to single out some of the best Swedish brands that are available in Denmark, they would be Tiger of Sweden, Acne and Nudie. But I still think that Copenhagen is the design center of Scandinavia. Copenhagen Fashion Week is the biggest fair and draws the most people from abroad. And a lot of the Swedish brands prefer to have a stand at the fair in Copenhagen.
One of the most exciting Danish fashion houses right now is NOIR. The brand is only a few years old, but is already being sold in the right stores in New York, London and Milan and at Birger Christensen in Copenhagen. NOIR has a very fashion-conscious clientele, people who reinforce their personality through their clothes. The design has an air of mystique and many sexy elements, and NOIR is a good example of a fashion house that dares to be true to its own universe.
In reality it is sometimes difficult to tell Danish design apart from French or Italian. But Danish design stands apart because of the simple elements and the purity. That is what sticks and what makes it beautiful, in my opinion.
Chris Pedersen’s three favorite fashion stores in Copenhagen:
1206, Naboløs 3: This is the ‘it shop’ of Copenhagen. The owner mixes underground and classic wear in a completely irresistible manner. 1206 make their own t-shirts and sell clothes by several very young designers. There is also a hairdresser inside the store.
Mads Nørgaard, Amagertorv 15: One of the most stylistically consistent men’s wear stores in town. The selection is classic with a twist and goes perfectly with Mads Nørgaard’s own designs. They also stock brands like Paul Smith, Fred Perry and Danish Henrik Vibskov.
Wood Wood, Krystalgade 7: Copenhagen’s answer to Colette in Paris and Corso Como in Milan, even though the selection is more 'street.' They also have their own Wood Wood collection.
Stine Goya’s three favorites:
Acne Jeans, Gl. Mønt 10: Swedish group that makes jeans and shirts. Sexy and not too sugary.
Storm, St. Regnegade 1: Highly international fashion store that would fit right in on a street corner in New York. Puts in a stock of brands that are otherwise hard to come by in Denmark, such as shoes from Pierre Hardy, New York.
Norse Shop, Teglgårdsstræde 6 A: Sells streetwear and t-shirts. The owners make their own magazine and have parties.
Rachael Morgan’s three favorites:
Mulberry, Østergade 13: I love their bags. The quality of the materials is topnotch, and they last for years. Moreover, the sales assistants are really nice and helpful.
Zara, Klosterstræde 1: Really good basic wear that lasts for a whole season. There is a lot to choose from at reasonable prices.
Rue Verte, Ny Østergade 11: There are several sections, each with really gorgeous clothes for different purposes. You can always find something for any occasion. And they usually only stock a few pieces of each item, so it is also pretty exclusive.
May 2006