How do designers who make hemlines-make headlines?
Amidst all the air kisses and fluffy fabulousness associated with fashion, young Danish designers are getting serious about getting global exposure. We spoke to Danish Fashion Institute, the turbo engine which organizes and advertises Copenhagen Fashion Week. And three designers who see it as the launch pad for their fashion future.
While Paris, Milan, London and New York are highly-hyped hosts to fashion weeks twice a year, Copenhagen is emerging as a solid contender for joining the ranks, vying for the position as the fifth fashion metropolis versus Tokyo, Berlin and Barcelona. Coming from a country with a population of about 5.5 million compared to over 8.2 million in New York City alone, what’s the biggest must-have for Danish fashion designers to make it big time?
Being visible beyond Denmark’s borders is crucial. No one knows that better than the powers that be at Danish Fashion Institute (DAFI), which supports and promotes Danish design talent and organizes Copenhagen Fashion Week (CFW). In case you’re not actually on the catwalks or at the VIP venues watching the shows, they’ve orchestrated massive outdoor screens telecasting them live around Copenhagen central. In addition to online viewing, where you can also catch red carpet interviews and extra video clips at www.copenhagenfashionweek.tv.
DAFI’s Founder and Director, Eva Kruse, has a passion for fashion and is keen on driving Danish fashion forward. “I see so many designers starting out who are like lonely islands,” says Eva. DAFI was primarily established so designers could benefit from others who have been there, done that. “There’s a need for ‘professionalization’. Finding partners to solve the parts of the company you can’t, so designers can focus on designing. And ‘internationalization’. To begin a company today, you have to have a global focus from the start,” states Eva. Major musts include knowing the market you’re entering before you enter it. Getting local partners and analyzing your competition and how to position yourself, finding out who’s who, what’s hot and what’s not. “And be willing to enhance your line. For example, to appeal to Russia, you might want to add a bit of bling,” notes Eva. Aside from getting a celebrity to pose for the paparazzi in your clothes, there are about 25 power players in the fashion industry who could sky rocket a designer’s career. Certain high profile fashion editors, photographers, stylists and PR people. (If you’re reading this, know who you are.) “There is a fashion cartel,” says Eva adding “Even though they’re not connected to each other, they’re extremely connected.”
For designers, the biggest fashion must-have is financial backing
Anne Christine Persson, Head of Communications at DAFI, sees CFW as a distinct advantage for up-and-coming designers since it’s a visibility venue for both buyers and the press. The bottom line according to Anne is to find an investor. “The biggest challenge for designers is being able to grow and making the right investments in their companies. So they don’t end up being a one man/woman show having to struggle each season.” In Anne’s opinion, “aside from that elusive x factor which instantly puts you on the international fashion map, three mega musts are: guts, unique design and a solid business plan.” Key moves to make especially if you’re not connected with a fashion conglomerate that’s creating commercial styles with volume.
Danish designers are hot property right now, bringing their distinctive design lingo in the form of streamlined simplicity and fondness for functionality to a global fashion arena often on the outer extremities of extravagance and outrageousness. In fact, fashion is now part of Denmark’s design claim to fame alongside furniture and architecture.
If it’s true what they say about “location, location, location,” Copenhagen’s latitude and longitude add to its appeal as Northern Europe’s hub for over 55,000 fashion professionals who come to Copenhagen Fashion Week bi-annually for a preview of new talent. Here’s your chance to see three rising stars before the infamous fashionistas arrive in a frenzy, cat fighting for that VIP front row center seat. (For an overview and ongoing update of all the shows and events, go to www.copenhagenfashionweek.com)
Different design raison d'êtres
While each designer has his or her own way of thinking, working and being, they all look to Copenhagen Fashion Week as a platform to catapult their careers. Something which will facilitate their fashion future internationally. Although it would be easy to assume that being good at fashion and finance are two mutually-exclusive traits (all the more rare in one, not genetically-modified person), they embrace the importance of both. At the same time, they each keep their focus on their integrity, originality and unique design raison d'être.
YDE
“Maria Callas, Audrey Hepburn, Marie Antoinette, 18th century French art ... People or periods that have stood out in history because of their uniqueness, decadence or grandeur,” says Ole Yde, citing the inspiration for his brand YDE. Ole is fascinated by French opulence mixed with Danish modern in his delicate, poetic and irrefutably feminine approach to fashion, where he works like a sculptor or painter to create subtle fairy tale silhouettes. Ole’s hopes for Copenhagen Fashion Week involve getting global exposure and networking with industry insiders from abroad. “A lot can happen if we meet the right store or the right fashion editor,” adds Ole, who hears so many opinions as to the do’s and don’t about building his brand but remains true to his vision. “Ideally we are looking for a financial partner. An investor, who would share our vision and look after the business side, so I can focus on what I do best. Which is to continue making beautiful dresses.” For the upcoming CFW, YDE is joined by TOKLUM, a lovely Danish shoe brand with a retro, film noir look, in an event hosted by classic icon of Danish elegance, Royal Copenhagen, at their flagship boutique. Don’t miss Ole’s exquisite eveningwear to match the dinnerware www.yde-copenhagen.com
Vibe Johansson
Taking an avant garde approach to draping is Vibe Johansson, who designs inventive ways to wear the same item, but differently. The result is a range of items each with an unexpected element. A tunic you can wear upside down. A dress that doubles as a hood. A scarf that’s also a skirt. And details either re-positioned or reincarnated from a previous life. Working with jerseys and knits exclusively made in Italy, Vibe brings an understated elegance and sublime simplicity to what she calls “anywear,” taking her inspiration from music, architecture, nature and technology. “To make a business work, I find myself spending a lot of my time doing other things,” notes Vibe who would rather concentrate 100% on the design process. In terms of CFW, she hopes to make new contacts and meet the right international stylists, buyers and other fashion influencials, which she sees as crucial. “What’s most important for me is the design and that what I do is being appreciated.” Her dream is to have the freedom “to always do new things and keep experimenting. I would never want it to get boring,” adds Vibe. During CFW, her upcoming collection can be seen via Showroom / Anne Von Wowern. Vibe will also have an exclusive, live exhibition / event outside and inside the new, cool art venue, Karriere Bar, on the 7th of August at 10pm. Get ready to be draped in her delicious designs www.vibejohansson.com
Louise Mehl
Bringing sweetness and light to the fashion equation is Louise Mehl, with a slightly funky, feminine approach to casual wear characterized by a gypsy, urban attitude. And a focus on knits. From sultry soft cashmeres, cottons and jerseys to satiny silks, Louise’s look is informal and unpretentious. A very personal expression of her own concept of beauty with comfort, taking her inspiration from an array of imagery, emotions and sensations. Louise applauds DAFI for their instrumental role in branding Danish labels. “The bigger brands now attract visibility for us small designers,” says Louise. “This is already helping all of us, as the success is lifting the level of awareness for the Scandinavian market, causing an interest from buyers who might not have had an interest in visiting Denmark before.” Her hopes for this CFW include brand awareness, one or two new markets, the right kind of PR and attracting European, Asian and American agents. If this were a film and we could cut to the next scene... “I would be in my office with my seamstress and my patternmaker working on our first big fashion show, says Louise. “Drawings, fabrics and patterns everywhere, models trying on things for a fitting ...” Catch a glimpse of Louise’s dream already well under way at www.louisemehl.dk
August 2008